PCI wifi - usb Wifi. Anyone use these?

Just wondered if anyone had some 1st hand experience using any of these products. Been looking at getting a PCI wifi card just wondered if theres anything i should know about these. I read breifly some of the usb ones lack power and the pci is better to draw power from the motherboard. also read that you could use 2 usb’s in some sort of fused state but this maybe illegal in the uk. or ‘‘governed’’ but i dunno what that means, sounded bad in the context.

i want to try to game with it so ive been looking at the ‘‘300mbs’’ of both types but i get that will be the maximum in perfect conditions. anyway anything you can advise me on would be great. i been up too long things are hard to understand :smiley:

USB, PCI, it doesn’t really matter which as long as the chip is supported… the only benefit of PCI tends to be range and that’s purely down to Ariel size/type… I’m pretty sure the output/signal strength is legally limited. (unless you’re a licensed radio ham :wink: )

You do realise that if you buy an 802.11n Wireless “N” card (USB or PCI) you will also need a Wireless “N” router to make the most of it… ie. if you still use a Wireless “G” router, the card will drop to 802.11g (54Mbps).

I have no idea what you mean about using 2 together… give me a link… but am guessing they are either doubling the throughput by somehow having 2 simultaneous connections to the router which if possible I doubt would be illegal, or are somehow increasing the emitted signal strength, which probably would be because of interference.

A PCI card will free up a USB slot, or a USB card will free up a PCI slot… which is more important to you.

BUT for games… use an ethernet cable :), and some 200Mbps powerline adapters if needed, such as:
ZyXEL PLA-401 v3 200Mbps Powerline Adapter Twin Pack - £59.99
even the 85Mbps ones will be better than Wireless “N” for gaming, as the wireless in unlikely to achieve this as a sustained throughput in real world situations… such as:
Extra Value 85Mbps Powerline Adapter Twin Pack - £29.99

Can you give me a link about that doubling up of USB wireless cards thingy.

i cant find the source of where i read about using the 2 usbs, it had a specific word to describe moulding the 2 together. how do i tell if my router is N or G. its netgear and kinda old, come free with sky.

i will try and find the 2 usb thing again, i clicked a few links to come across it last night, cant remember now though.

my router is a netgear dg834gt, those powerline adapters look cool. never heard of them before ill have to read up on them, maybe i will just drill through the floor and pass a cable, theres exisiting holes where the water pipes run so as long as the cable doesnt melt on the hot water pipe it shud be ok to do that?

worse comes to worse i will just put the pc downstairs but i dont really want my folks using my ocmputer as there not cpu friendly.

It will probably say on it somewhere

802.11g = G … may say b/g or 802.11b/g

802.11n = N … may say b/g/n or 802.11b/g/n

may say “pre N” … in which case you may need a “pre N” card by the same manufacturer :frowning: to make use of the “N” speeds.

there will also probably be a setting in it’s user interface to select whether to use it as b/g/n

Or give me the make and model.

But seriously… go cabled, with powerline adapters if needed… see last posting.

if it’s old and came from Sky, it’s probably a Netgear DG834G, and is an 802.11b/g (54Mbps) router.

Hot water pipes are unlikely to get hot enough to melt an ethernet cable.

And the powerline adapters (aka. HomePlugs) just use your household electrical circuit as part of the cable… if you get my meaning.

more info here:


blind as a bat i am, 108mbps g in big red writing on my ip page thing ;D
cable is cheapest option aswel, just need to find one long enough to run through the floor and pipes.

on a side note my case turned up today :o few mroe days and the rest should turn up.

thanks for the advice. time for some DIY!! destruction-inmy-yard ;D

10 metre Cat5E ethernet patch lead
or 20 metre

or if it’s liable to run past anything that emits strong radio interference, get Cat5E shielded.

or buy the crimping tool and make your own… probably not a cost effective way any more with prices of cables that low, unless you wanna make loads of em :wink:

108Mbps = “G+”, and in my opinion was a marketing ploy, I’ve never seen better throughput from a so called “G+” (at least in real terms) than from standard “G”… though I haven’t exactly run exhaustive tests :wink:

“G+” also requires a “G+” card, usually from the same manufacturer… bit like “pre N” in that respect… as neither (AFAIK) were ratified standards, so each manufacturer applied it slightly differently.

50M CAT5e RJ45 Ethernet Network LAN Cable Lead 50 Meter only £7.39 on ebay. should be plenty. is there a chance if theres alot of slack coiling could make an electromagnet? that might sound like a stupid question but if i recall its happened to some wires on a pc ‘back in the day’ we had. although they werent ethernet cables i dont know if the same applies.

I will CERTAINLY make it more susceptible to “electromagnetic” interference… either get one the correct length, or get shielded.

Though the maximum segment length for a Cat5 cable is supposed to be 100 meters, I’ve seen segments a lot shorter than that fail in certain conditions.

ahh ok didnt know what radio interference meant to be honest :-[ i will get some garden fence wire and figure out the length i spose, might aswel get shielded aswel to be safe. thanks for the help again mark.

OK, reworded to “electromagnetic” interference… ALL electrical goods emit radio waves (not just the ones that are “supposed to” such as wireless routhers, wireless phones, mobiles, commercial radio etc.)… now think of your ethernet cable as a large ariel, any radio waves that strike the cable will “interfere” with the electrical signal being sent along it… the longer the cable, the more surface area for radio waves to hit, so the signal will degrade faster and at an exponential rate… at some point the “intended” signal becomes that messed up that packets start to be lost (or are unreadable) at the other end so have to be resent, or worse still, nothing arrives at all due to a combination of interference and the cables natural electrical resistance…

Standard (Category 5/5e/6) UTP cable mitigates this a little by twisting the pairs of internal wires… UTP = Unshielded Twisted Pair.

Shielded cable, actually has interference shielding surrounding the internal wires as well.


Worst household culprits tend to be things with large magnets and/or electromagnetic fields, such as anything with a large electrical motor, ie. Fridge, Washing machine etc., and your Stereo speakers, old CRT TV’s, and the like.

Put simply… keep cable runs as short as necessary :slight_smile:

In the “good ‘ol’ days”, ever remember hearing a loud ticking on your car stereo when another car went past that had bad shielding on this ignition system :slight_smile: